April 11, 2019 at 3:27 PM #25830
I’m trying to make sure I install the THS RGB 4.1b amp in my 1-chip-02 console properly and I have a few questions I need help with please.
My setup is:
Multi-out to scart that plugs into OSSC
OSSC HDMI out to HDMI to VGA converter to PC CRT
1. What is the benefit of using the csync on the RGB amp vs the sync provided by the SNES?
2. I’m not sure if my scart cable has the 470ohm resistor in it or not. Can I just skip using the sync from the RGB amp and let the original SNES hardware handle that?
3. If I am able to use the original SNES sync, then do I need to attach the RGB amp to the main SNES board differently? I know I don’t need to remove R12 and C46, but is there anything else I should not do?
To sum it up, if not using RGB amp sync, then do I need to solder the RGB amp to the SNES differently?
Also, on the page explaining the checklist: https://www.videogameperfection.com/products/nintendo-bypass-amp/
There seems to be a repeat of information on Step 5. “On NTSC SNES systems:
Remove R12, R12 and C46.”
I think it says R12 twice? Maybe this is correct though, I’m not sure.
Thank you for any help that can be offered!
April 15, 2019 at 8:16 PM #25865
- This topic was modified 3 days, 19 hours ago by Paranoid_Andy.
Asked my forum-shy friend for some feedback on this, here goes.
1. There’s no real benefit of using CSync on the RGB amp. It’s mainly there for SNES consoles that don’t have CSync to begin with and also if you have a Scart cable that has a straight through sync connection then there is no need to add a 470ohm resistor if you configure the jumper correctly on the RGB amp.
2. using the existing CSync circuit in the SNES will be fine although you won’t be any better off either as it is strongly advisable to make sure that you have a 470ohm resistor installed in your Scart cable if using the existing CSync circuit in the SNES anyway.
3. No, nothing different just don’t bother to wire CSync to the RGB amp and as you said leave R12 and C46 alone. Also don’t forget to disconnect the outgoing side of the S-RGB amp by removing R15, R16 and R17
The part that repeats R12 is supposed to say R11, R12 and C46.April 16, 2019 at 6:19 PM #25868
Bucko comin through! Thanks man I really appreciate it.
This kind of stuff is new to me so I’m doing my best to avoid any costly mistakes. This answers all my questions and I’ll go ahead and try installing soon.
Glad to see the page updated with the new info, had me a little confused hah.
Please tell your friend I send my mega thanks to them as well! Very much appreciated!
I hope the move went well and business is going great 🙂
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