November 30, 2018 at 5:59 PM #24092
Has anyone been able to get the Voultar RGB bypass board working on a VA4 PAL board?
I’ve followed the instructions and checked continuity of every connection but am getting ‘no sync’ on my OSSC or direct into TV.
I have tried this on two VA4 consoles and now neither of them work.
Here is an updated photo with signals now pulled directly from the chip as Voultar recommends, since this photo I have also moved the power and ground directly to the 7805 (furthest away from the DIN).December 6, 2018 at 1:42 AM #24198
We’ve actually been seeing some strange things with PAL Mds and sync and we’re still investigating.December 6, 2018 at 11:20 PM #24214
Ok thanks, hopefully it’s something simple = )January 2, 2019 at 2:27 PM #24556
As a matter of fact, I found a way to connect the Voulat board and get a decent picture.
There are a few differences to take in consideration toward the installation guide :
– First, lift RGB pins on the VDP (the big tricky part) but leave the SYNC one on the board, don’t lift it. You can connect the Voultar board to the corresponding pads, and also connect the CSYNC pad to the CSYNC pin on the VDP.
– On the back of the board, discard the mainboards pull-up resistor for the CSYNC signal and install a 2k2 resistor as it’s shown in the installation guide. As well Locate Pin 10 of the CXA1145 on the solder side and cut the track as shown in the guide. We will not cut anymore pin on the CXA1145.
– Finally, we need to connect RGB out of the Voulatr board directly to the 8 pin DIN. Again, on the back of the board, locate R, G, and B of the DIN connector and solder them to the RGB out wires of the Voultar. Concerning the SYNC out, you can solder it directly on the SYNC leg of the DIN connector on the upside of the board.
– For +5v and GRD, take them on the 7805, as you did.
The results are pretty good, even on a CRT screen.
Voilà !January 2, 2019 at 10:54 PM #24562
Thank you for your reply, I have had this project on hold for the past month now with no progress.
This evening I managed to get it to work after seeing a number people connecting the +5v to the csync on the voltar board with a 2.2k resistor as below.
@voultar Genesis rgb bypass board in a late model 1 master system looks crisp and I don't notice any jailbars I used 4.42k resistors instead of 5.6k looks great thanks voultar also for the troubleshooting! pic.twitter.com/z8KGf3G84e
— Frankym2612 (@frank1382008) July 29, 2018
— iFixRetro (@iFixRetro) August 9, 2018
All of a sudden I have a signal on my OSSC and it is operational.
The colours are now vibrant, but there are huge vertical lines everywhere, I assume these will be corrected by swapping out the SMC components to the new values Voultar has suggested.
I bet if I tried your way it would have worked also so thank you for taking the time to respond.
ChrisJanuary 3, 2019 at 9:43 AM #24572
Okay it seems like the issue was resolved on the newer version of the board!
You can see on the newer boards the +5V has a link to the CYSNC and the component values have been updated also.
Hope this helps someone else as I’ve been scratching my head for a long time.
Shit it's saturday: This board is so simple to assemble that you can solder this while being shitfaced. Stupid easy simple sega amp designed by @voultar. Works on SMS, Genesis 1/2, Sega CD and more! Provides a cleaner image and bypasses the cxa1145 encoder and more! pic.twitter.com/fNjTiZnyLh
— iFixRetro (@iFixRetro) August 4, 2018
January 3, 2019 at 5:22 PM #24585January 4, 2019 at 11:09 AM #24596
- This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by nzChris.
Thanks for the information Chris. I didn’t see there was a new revision for the board, and I’m glad you find a solution on your own.
But do your last post shows the image you get ? Because it seems that there are still some interferences isn’t it ?January 4, 2019 at 12:27 PM #24600
Yes this is what it looks like now, with the new revision the capacitor values etc have been changed so I am assuming these would fix the lines. TBH I cant figure out how and where to buy the smd components so I have ordered the new board direct from Voultar.January 7, 2019 at 8:25 PM #24649
Ok this should be my final post, I chatted with Voultar and managed to get it working.
The last part of the puzzle was lifting pin 50 on the VDP which is the redundant subcarrier.
You might not be able to tell from the photo but it is razor sharp and not even a hit of jail-bars to be seen in any light.January 8, 2019 at 9:55 AM #24656
I’m glad you made it finally ! It looks perfect to me.
Something I find strange though, is that in my case I didn’t have to add an extra resistor on the board itself. I did have the pin 50 lifted but I get very fine results with no extra routing on the Voultar board. Would it be better if I did add some ?….I’m maybe a little lazy to re-open the console again…
Anyway, well done !
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